There are many opinions on the “best way” to initially season your cast iron. Maybe your family has passed down their ‘tried and true’ method. Maybe you are a cast iron aficionado and only use certain oils and techniques. If you are happy with your seasoning – by all means continue to use it! In fact, we would love to hear what you do and why!
We all have the same goal. We take a piece of cast iron, cover it with oil then bake it at a temperature that turns the oil into a hardened surface. Some users will argue for a certain type of oil, a certain oven temperature, a specific baking time, the exact number of oil layers, etc. Remember, there are many ways to achieve our common goal. Below you will find an initial seasoning process that is easy to follow and works every time. You will also find the reasons why I suggest certain things and how I think things work.
There is no section for comments on this page but I have set up a blog post where you can share your thoughts on this subject. Here! Post on Initial Seasoning.
Please note (and this is important)…the magic of a perfect cast iron seasoning is NOT in the initial seasoning. The initial seasoning is a very important step but remember that the seasoning will improve every time you use it. If you follow some suggestions and avoid the big mistakes, you will have beautiful cast iron that is non-stick, easy to clean and wonderful to work with. Let’s get started.
Want to skip the details and get simple instructions to download and follow? CLICK HERE for all the information you need.
This process starts with your pan ready to go – meaning it is clean and dry. Clean in this case means free of any caked-on food or rust. If you need to further prepare your pan – you will soon be able to click over to the Restoration section of the site. However, that section is still being completed. It will be done soon!
Here are the things we will discuss here:
- Seasoning Basics
- Oils and smoke point
- Polymerization
- Initial Seasoning Instructions
Seasoning Basics
The heart of the seasoning process comes down to 2 things: 1) oven conditions (time and temperature) and 2) using the right oil. And there are 2 more things you need to know, polymerization and smoke point. Polymerization is the chemical process where our thin coat of oil changes and hardens into the stick-free surface we all want. And a smoke point is simply the temperature where the oil starts decomposing and burning off.
If these few statements are good enough for you to get started you can skip the next sections and go right to the end. Otherwise, we are going to climb into the details and the chemistry a little bit. I want to explain 1). why the choice of oils is super important and 2). why there is a ton of confusion about this topic. In order to avoid wandering too far into the chemistry – I have written up an in-depth discussion of the organic and polymerization chemistry involved and will put it in a new blog post soon.
But I will tiptoe into the chemistry and explain some of the ideas below. Let’s start at the basics.
Oils and smoke point
Oils are composed of carbon (C), hydrogen (H) and oxygen (O). These 3 basic elements can be combined in an incredible number of ways. Generally speaking, oils are made up of fatty acids and they are all made of C, H and O. These fatty acids are broken into 3 main types and they have familiar names: monounsaturated, polyunsaturated and saturated fats. All the oils we use to season cast iron have different mixtures of these 3 fats.
Different oils have different smoke points and that smoking temperature changes if the oil is refined, unrefined, or even partially refined. For example, extra-virgin olive oil is an extremely common oil to find in people’s homes. It is good for salad dressings, sauces and marinades but generally considered bad for initial seasoning. It is because the the smoke point is too low which means you may have smoke detectors going off. This is exactly what happened to me about 20 years ago and my daughter still remembers me rushing her out of the house. And she still mentions it.
Think about what it means for an oil to be refined vs unrefined (or virgin). Extra virgin olive oil is basically the oil right out of the crushed olives. It is filled with compounds that impart flavor and aroma (chemistry geeks would call them phenolic compounds, alcohols, hydrocarbons and volatile compounds). To refine the oil, manufacturers put it through physical and chemical processes such as boiling, freezing, pH adjustments and filtering. By the time all that is done you have a clear, almost tasteless, liquid.
Take a look at the table below and notice what products have low smoke points…things like butter and lard. Those are mostly solids and full of chemical compounds that burn off at the lower temperatures.
I know it doesn’t look like it…but creating this table was a daunting task. And I am still not happy with it. I reviewed tons of online sources and they simply lack consistency. So I went to some scientific papers and they also did not give me the confidence I was looking for. I will get a blog post on these later. So I visited product manufacturing sites and in one case actually telephoned the manufacturer. So you might think that this is the ‘one list to rule them all’. It is NOT. Consider this table a good place to start. But why the inconsistency? Why the confusion?
The confusion starts with the label on the bottle. Did you buy a refined, partially refined, virgin or extra-virgin oil? Maybe the bottle doesn’t say any of those things. Or maybe it says light, extra light, pure, pomace, cold pressed, hot pressed, first pressed, expeller pressed or solvent extracted. Oh, there are more examples, such as high oleic and high linoleic oils. These terms are not just marketing hype – they describe huge differences in the way they were manufactured as well as the actual ingredients in the oils. So a person complaining about their experience with a certain oil may have gotten confused about what they were actually using. On top of that, testing for smoke point doesn’t really have consistent standards. So no matter of we are comparing scientific data, user experience, or reading numerous web sites…we sometimes are not speaking the same language.
There are plenty of specialty oils out there that look good for some purposes but may be awful for seasoning cast iron. It can be difficult to know accurately and it leads to smoky houses, sticky pans and disappointed people. So what should you do? Either experiment and see what works for you or make it easy for yourself and follow some simple suggestions. Personally, I will always suggest using a refined oil and setting the oven temperature under the smoke point.
Under/Above the smoke point?
Let’s tackle what some of you may be thinking since it is a common point of contention. Some users stress that your oiled pans must be heated above the smoke point of your oil in order to build carbon into the oil polymer. Personally, this is something I do not want to do (see above – running out of a smoky house) but more importantly, I do not feel it is necessary.
As I mentioned earlier, a pan’s seasoning only starts with the initial seasoning step. And every time you cook with it, the seasoning will get deeper in color, thicker and more resistant. Carbon will certainly be integrated into the seasoning over time. Perhaps exceeding the smoke point could build a thicker polymer layer more quickly? Maybe. There is just nothing that makes me want to do this. I feel anyone can create a wonderful initial seasoning with the instructions found here and it just gets better the more you use it.
Throughout this site, I will be pointing out several variations that people use in the seasoning process (or restoration, cooking, etc). People have opinions and experiences different than mine – and we all want to hear about them. As I mentioned earlier – I set up a blog post on this topic so we can gather up some comments from you. We all can learn from discussions like this! Post – Initial Seasoning
Use the table above as a guide and choose a clear, refined oil with a high smoke point for seasoning your cast iron. Unless you are using Crisco shortening, of course. And here is a spoiler…I highly recommend using Crisco. And I will tell you exactly why.
- Crisco Shortening
- Canola Oil
- Peanut Oil
- Grapeseed Oil
Using Crisco is easy and cooks on beautifully. One of the greatest things about Crisco is that it is the same every time. There is no confusion in what you are using. It is cheap, usually available and the very little amount that you are using to cover the pans forms an extremely hard coating. But what is it?
Crisco, was born in a Proctor and Gamble laboratory way back in 1911 from partially hydrogenated cottonseed and soybean oil. It was formulated so it did not need refrigeration and had an extended shelf life compared to the alternatives. Better living through chemistry! And it was extremely popular.
But if you are trying to eat healthy- you probably heard of partial hydrogenation. Partially hydrogenated products create trans fats and it is generally considered to cause cardiovascular disease by both raising LDL (bad cholesterol) and lowering your HDL (good cholesterol). The owners of Crisco (now J.M. Smucker Co. since 2002) deliberately changed the formula to use less partially hydrogenated cottonseed and soybean oils and more fully hydrogenated cottonseed oil — which contains no trans fat.
But the stigma exists and some people don’t like Crisco since it has gone through such chemical manhandling and is associated with poor health. I do not use Crisco to bake (but truthfully, I don’t do much baking). But if I did – I would probably not use Crisco to bake (I freely admit it – I like butter). I do not agree with the argument that “if you would not eat Crisco…then don’t put it on your pans”. Personally, I do not see this as being equivalent. At all. If you do not want to use it as a shortening in baking then I agree with you. There are better alternatives. But the use of it in seasoning is completely different. The thin layer of Crisco you are putting on the pans in the initial seasoning is getting completely changed (through polymerization). It no longer bears any resemblance to the Crisco in the tub – physically or chemically. And I will show you below.
Polymerization
As I said above, we want to bake on the oil into a hardened layer (called polymerization). OK…our oven is set and we have chosen an oil that has a smoking point a fair amount above our oven temperature. And there is no need to just squeak in below the smoke point. Ovens have hot spots and some oven’s true temperature do not always match the what the dial says.
Fair warning…I am not going to tell you exactly what is going on during polymerization because I do not know exactly. It is not entirely clear what is going on during polymerization. More specifically, there are likely many things occurring during this seemingly simple act of heating oil on iron. The different components in the oils are breaking down at different temperatures and the monounsaturated, polyunsaturated and saturated fat molecules are linking and crosslinking to form complex chemical structures.
Earlier we touched on some of the basic organic chemistry. We learned that oils are made up of monounsaturated, polyunsaturated and saturated fats. Let’s look at some examples:
Monounsaturated fat: Oleic acid is a very common monounsaturated fat and it looks like this:
C8H17CH=CH(CH2)7COOH
Polyunsaturated fat: Linoleic acid is a very common polyunsaturated fat and it looks like this:
CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)7COOH
Saturated fat: Palmitic acid is a very common saturated fat and it looks like this:
CH3(CH2)14COOH
If you remember from earlier – you can see that they are all made up of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. But these fatty acids are not floating around on their own. They are usually gathered up into groups of triglycerides. If these Fatty Acids were on their own they would be “Free Fatty Acids”, and they would be undesirable (impart a bad taste to oils). They are also the first to start breaking down when heated. So we don’t want them.
And as I mentioned above, a whole lot happens when heat is applied. The chemical chains above start to break down and reform into longer chains. And those chains crosslink with others and now you have long complex molecules that are not only long but have turns, layers and rings. The oil layer is now hardened into a shell…a thin, translucent, water-repellent layer. In fact, I tend to think of it more like a shellac (C30H50O11).
This layer is not the oil we started with and we now have a complex and hardened layer that is nonstick, repels water and keeps the iron from rusting.
And the seasoning process has only just started. The initial seasoning creates an excellent polymer layer around your pan, protecting it from rust and making it easy to clean. The seasoning will improve every time you use it. Will a fried egg slip out of the pan on your first try? Maybe. Maybe not. Be sure to see our cooking tips.
Drying Oils
There is a current thought that one of the drying oils is a better oil to use in the seasoning process. A drying oil is one that when left out on its own will absorb oxygen and dry on its own (like oil paints). And people like to point out flaxseed oil as an example of a great seasoning oil since its iodine number is so high (a measure of “drying” ,or more specifically, its level of unsaturation). Blog post coming on drying oils.
Personally, I am not a flaxseed oil user and my reasons for not using it are more basic. Flaxseed oil should be always refrigerated and has a short shelf life (turns rancid easily) and once it starts to go – it has a distinct fishy odor. And just because an oil readily absorbs oxygen from the atmosphere at household temperatures does not make it a good seasoning oil. The smoke point of unrefined flaxseed oil is 225oF – the lowest of any oil in the table above. You would be forced to polymerize above the smoke point – something I do not find necessary to do. A thin coat of any of the preferred refined oils for 1 hour at 375 degrees F polymerizes into a dry and uniform layer. It won’t matter if it was a drying oil or not.
I said this at the beginning, and it is important enough to mention at the end. The initial seasoning is important but NOT the most important step to getting the nonstick surface you want. The true magic comes from using the pan and maintaining it well.
Simple Initial Seasoning Instructions
We are going to bake on 3 layers of seasoning. In total, all the steps below take about 4 hours. Tip: Use paper towels to spread on oil and a lint free cloth to take it off. Looking for a simple 1-page download? CLICK HERE for all the information you need.
- Preheat to 375 degrees F. After oven reaches 375 degrees F then place pan into oven.
- When the pan is hot – take pan out carefully and spread oil all over it. Use Crisco or the other oils mentioned above. Inside, outside, top and bottom (and handle). You do not need much and you will be wiping almost all of it off. Use a lint free cloth for this step (paper towels tend to shred) and take off everything you just put on. Buff the whole thing.
- Place back in oven (upside down) but just for 15 minutes. If you buffed well – there should be just a sheen on the pan and certainly no oil pooling on the pan or dripping in the oven. Take it out and use the cloth again to buff the entire surface.
- Place pan back in oven (upside down) for 1 hour. After 1 hour, if you took enough oil off during the buffing it will be dry and not sticky. Perfect. If you left on too much oil – put the pan back in the oven until dry.
- Repeat Steps 2 – 4.
- Repeat Steps 2 – 4.
- After the last layer has baked on, turn off the oven and let the pans cool inside.
This will give you a great base seasoning but remember that this is the start of your seasoning process. Follow the cooking, cleaning and maintenance guidelines on CastIronMagic.com and the seasoning will continue to improve over time.
Remember!
- Thin coats of oil then buff it all off. Believe me – a thin film is all that is needed.
- Crisco is recommended as the seasoning oil of choice. If you want you can use Canola, Peanut, or Grapeseed oil.
- If your pan is sticky – the oil went on too thick. An oven temperature of 375 degrees F for 1 hour is hot enough to polymerize a thin coat of any of these oils.